The Norwegian brand owner shares the problems connected to the current beauty refill model, and some of the greenwashing surrounding sustainability in beauty as a whole.
Norwegian RUA Beauty uses high-performance ancient Nordic botanicals in formulas featuring results-driven ingredients, including Swedish plant stem cells, sustainably distilled Norwegian seawater, and wild-harvested Norwegian sea kelp. It’s all crafted in the company’s CO2-neutral lab in Norway. Founder Kristina Dunn is a former fashion designer and full-time DJ turning natural skincare expert, now an award-winning formulator with 15 years of experience in the field.
– We fuse innovation with ancient wisdom, delivering a minimal skincare ritual that embodies our Nordic values of functionality, quality, and nature at the heart of everything, she explains.
Three years in the making! Tell us about your new, circular packaging.
– Yes, reaching this point took time. Together with Giada Tamborrino Studio, we knew from the beginning that our original design wasn’t fully aligned with the sustainability standards we wanted to achieve. Bootstrapping the company meant using design as a tool for exceptional branding on a tight budget, and we’ve learned a lot along the way.
– For example, not all glass is recyclable, as with our previous opal glass bottles, and most custom colour applications are actually liquid plastics. Even small choices, like deciding between non-plastic functional labels or screen printing, proved more complex than expected.
– We also discovered how unstandardised the packaging industry is. Many bottles require extra plastic parts just to prevent leakage during shipping, which defeats the purpose of sustainable design. Plastic was everywhere, from the glue behind ‘eco’ paper labels to plastic-coated cardboard boxes. Then there is the illusion of bio-plastics, the short recyclability lifespan of PCR, and the endless greenwashing happening across the beauty industry. We first tried using a glass bottle with a mono-plastic recyclable pump, but the technology just wasn’t there yet and the pumps started to break. We had to pivot quickly, closing in on European manufacturers who could meet our smaller MOQ requirements and were leading innovation ahead of the EU’s 2030 cosmetic packaging standards.
Hard work pays off. Dunn explains how she’s now proud to say that the brand’s new system reduces plastic waste through infinitely recyclable glass bottles and reusable pump tops.
– We intentionally skipped the common ‘double refill’ model, usually a plastic pouch that is rarely recyclable or if a mono-material is recyclable once or twice. Instead, our primary packaging itself is the refill, designed to pair with a separate, long-lasting pump system. Every detail was considered, including supplier location, plastic footprint during shipping, and verified sustainability reporting. After several iterations, we partnered with Italian manufacturers for glass, pumps, and aluminium components.
– What makes the system unique is that we are pioneering the anti-plastic beauty movement, reducing waste at every stage and challenging the myth that plastic and most bioplastics are sustainable. We see this as the future of conscious beauty and are proud to be at the forefront. As packaging technology evolves, we remain committed to continuously refining and improving our designs.
That refill model is interesting, given that there are packaging experts stating that refill solutions in beauty is problematic, creating additional waste streams, and that a refill solution needs to be refilled three or four times before it makes a positive impact.
– Yes, I agree. Most cosmetic refill solutions today are plastic pouches, which are often multi-material and cannot be recycled, ending up in a landfill. Even mono-material pouches are rarely recycled. With so many types of plastic in circulation, a true recycling system is nearly impossible, making the idea of recycling plastic largely a myth. Some brands use aluminium containers, which is a great solution, but it often doubles packaging and increases CO2 emissions during shipping. Refilling also raises contamination risks. That’s why we eliminated the traditional refill model and made each bottle infinitely recyclable, ensuring both circularity and product quality for our customers.
You describe this as ‘fully circular.’
– Yes. True circularity means keeping materials in continuous use, eliminating waste, and ensuring products are durable, reusable, and fully recyclable. It is a closed-loop system where nothing is wasted and every stage, from production to reuse, preserves resources and reduces environmental impact.
What have been the hardest challenges in the process?
– One of the hardest ones has been navigating greenwashing while trying to build a truly conscious, sustainable brand on a bootstrapped budget, all while being limited by minimum order quantities that larger, venture-backed companies don’t face, Dunn shares. She continues:
– I’ve learned that ‘sustainability’ is a complex and often murky term, and it is not easily defined. I’ve also learned to trust my instincts and take the first steps in an industry dominated by mega-corporations, proving that a small brand can lead and innovate in meaningful ways.
After this launch, have you thought of the next steps already?
– Yes, we’re already thinking ahead. We’re exploring mycelium, fully biodegradable plantbased plastics, seaweed paper like NoPla, and algae-based plastics like SWAY. Sustainable packaging innovation is moving forward, and it’s really exciting to see what’s coming next.
– Overall, sustainability in beauty is still often misunderstood or greenwashed. Many brands claim eco-friendly credentials, but their materials or processes don’t always hold up. Circularity and refillable systems are growing trends, yet real implementation remains limited. Innovation is emerging, with materials like mycelium and algae-based plastics poised to reshape packaging in the coming years. Beyond packaging, many advances are happening in sustainable ingredient development, including collaborations with local producers and repurposing waste materials. Hope is on the horizon!